the thorough good cook - recipe - Cauliflower au Gratin

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9. Cauliflower au Gratin.
To make a gratin of a cauliflower, you must take a
cold one, carefully divide it, plentifully endue each separate
spring with butter ; build together again ; do the top with
pieces of butter, plentifully sprinkle with grated Parmesan
cheese and a few brown crumbs ; place in a baking-dish,
heat in the oven, and brown of a rich golden hue with a
salamander ; or if you have not got a salamander, let the
oven do the browning.
There is a cheap as well as a dear way of preparing this
delicious dish. The expensive way is to make a sauce in a
stew-pan with cream, pepper, salt, and cayenne, reducing
it over a sharp fire till it begins to get thick, adding grated
Parmesan mixed with half its weight of Gruyere cheese, and
stirring in two yolks of eggs. Then pour your sauce over
the cauliflower, garnish with egg and bread-crumbs, place
in a warm oven for a quarter of an hour, salamander
and serve. For the cheap, the very cheap, and quite as
savoury way, treat your cauliflower with dripping instead
of butter, and sprinkle not with expensive Parmesan but
with Dutch or any other cheese that comes handy, which
you may grate down to the very rind.

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