The black-skinned ones are generally reckoned the best.
Be particular to have the salt well soaked out, put the fish
into cold water, and place on the fire. Let it be cooked in
a large vessel, that it may have plenty of room. the moment
it is beginning to boil, take it of the fire, and keep it in the
water well covered ; it will then be tender, but if it should
boil, it will be tough and thready. Make a Maitre d’hotel,
with half a pound of butter, a spoonful of flour, four or
five spoonfuls of water, and a little salt. When the sauce
begins to thicken, work it well, that it may be more mellow.
Have some parsley chopped very fine, Mix a pinch of it
with a little glaze, and the juice of a lemon ; then taste
the sauce. If it be too brown in colour, a little thick
cream will make it both whiter and more mellow. Take
away the skin and bones of the fish, and put them into the
sauce, shaking it gently for fear of breaking them. Send
it up either in a vol-au-ven or-in a deep dish with crusts.
of puff paste.

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